Sunday, July 12, 2015

Sewing the Ruffles and Connecting Tiers to the Skirt Yoke

#1 Start by stitching the ends of each ruffle strip together to make one continuous circle of fabric. Finish the lower edge of each ruffle with a narrow hem –  turning the edge under ¼” and then another ¼”  Then, machine-stitch close to the second folded edge; this will form a 1/4" wide top-stitched hem. Press.

This shows the 1/4" wide top-stitched hem on 2 of the ruffles.
 Note: When I made the ruffles from a knit fabric, I used 1/2" wide top-stitched hems. This added weight kept the fabric from rolling.

#2  Sew the 2 pieces for each tier together at the side seams. Press open seams.

#3  Using a long machine stitch, sew a row of gathering stitches 1/2" from the upper edge on each ruffle. Gently draw up the gathers on the top ruffle, distributing the fullness evenly, so that the gathered edge measures the width of the lower edge of the jean top yoke. With right sides together and the side seam of the ruffle matching one of the side seams on the jean yoke, pin the lower edge of the yoke to the upper edge of the first gathered ruffle. Sew it with the gathered side up using a 1/2 inch seam.
See the different parts. Top black and white  Ruffle 1, then the Connecting Tier 1 section in the same fabric again. Next, the red Wimpy Kid Ruffle with black and white Connecting Tier 2.  Lastly, the black and white Wimpy Kid print which is the final Ruffle .
 #4  Adding the first tier.  Place the smaller width edge of Tier 1 over the ruffle seam you just sewed, matching  the side seams of the tier to the jean yoke.  Pin, and then sew with 1/2 " seam from the yoke side, so you see the previous stitching to allow you to stitch in the exact same place again.  This will encase the ruffle between the jean yoke and Tier 1.  Some seamstresses will suggest sewing  all 3 layers together at one time, but then you can't see your ruffles as you sew, so I do it in 2 steps. I want my gathers to be vertical and not pulled to the side.

#5  Gather Ruffle 2  and sew it to the bottom of  Connecting Tier 1.

#6  Sew Connecting Tier 2 to the bottom of Connecting Tier 1 and on top of the Ruffle 2.

#7  Gather Ruffle 3 and sew it to the bottom of Tier 2.
CONFESSION... I did so much gathering while sewing these 9 skirts that I decided to buy the Ruffler Attachment for my sewing machine. These are how the gathers look....pretty neat right.
 I RATIONALIZED the $60 purchase since I was "improving my sewing skills and trying new techniques..."

#8    Finish the seam allowances with either zig-zag stitches or serge them.
inside of skirt
Now you are ready to sew the flowers to the outside of the skirt along the lower yoke seam of the jean top.

Click Here to go back to the main blog post about sewing a Ruffled Jean Skirt.

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